The Gothic

Gothic mainly refers to literature which contains elements of both romance and horror. It also involves in various areas such as Gothic Architecture, Cultures, music, fashion, fiction etc. Gothic usually refers to Victorian cultures, the romantic theme and death.

There are key motifs and features within Gothic and they are:

• Strange places
• Crisis
• The uncanny
• The sublime
• Clashing time periods
• Sexual power
• A world of doubt
• The supernatural and the real
• Terror versus horror
• Power and constraint

Literature:
There is a novel called 'The Castle of Otranto' by Horace Walpole and it is regarded as the first Gothic novel and has made influences to the literature writing. It was published in 1764 and has got gothic and horror elements in the novel. It includes mysterious sounds, create suspense atmosphere, fear and supernatural. There are motifs with Gothic literature and they are:

• The grotesque
• The stranger
• Clashing time periods
• Transformation
• Unknown places
• Fear, terror and horror
• The supernatural and the real
• Mysterious
• Crisis
• A world of doubt
• Romance

During Victorian era, many authors such as Charles Dickens incorporated decay and deaths into their works as well. There are more Gothic novels such as Robert Louis's 'Stevenson's Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde' (1885), Oscar Wilde's 'The Picture of Dorian Gray' (1896), etc.

Architecture:
Gothic architecture is the architecture of the late medieval period and it features buttresses, pointed arch, rib vault, towers, tracery, etc. Nowadays, the greatest number of surviving Gothic buildings are cathedral. There is an example such as Salisbury cathedral in Salisbury, England. It exudes majesty with its elongated structure and has got the features of Gothic buildings such as the skeletal structure and decadence.  

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The Salisbury Cathedral

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Gothic Revival architecture refers to Victorian gothic, Neo-gothic and Jigsaw gothic. It is an architectural movement which began in the late 1740s in England. The architecture were elaborately built with decorative patterns and also got lancet windows. They look majesty and immense. Many authors would use gothic architecture to inspire them writing novels or Gothic fiction.

On above is a video which Professor John Bowen discusses the key motifs in Gothic novels and also relation to Gothic architecture.

Fashion
In fashion, dark hues colour like black and purple represents Gothic and also rich fabrics such as velvet.  The style of the clothing looks mysterious, dark and exotic. Cintra Wilson declares that "The origins of contemporary goth style are found in the Victorian cult of mourning."
During the mourning period of Prince Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria and the members of her court wore black clothing and mourning jewellery and it influenced fashion and become popular.

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Queen Victoria

Obession with death
The Victorians have got an obsession of death and it becomes a morbid fascination. During the Victorian era, there were high mortality rates in adults and children and death became common. There were things Victorians would do to express their fascination of death such as taking Memento Mori photographs, park cemetery become popular and having mourning jewellery. Mourning jewellery are bracelets, necklace and rings which made from woven human hair and it is a way for the Victorians to remember their beloved ones.

Mourning Traditions during the Victorian era

• Curtains in the house were drawn
• Clocks stopped at the time of death
• Wreath laurel, yew or boxwood tied with crape or black ribbons were hung on the front door to alert people there was a death occurred
• The body was watched at all times until burial
• Keepsakes were produced and given out such as funeral cards, invitations and memorial cards
• Relatives would surround the bed of the dying
• Valued the last words of the dying
• Memento Mori Photographs and death masks were produced of the dead
• Houses were filled with mementos
• Cover the mirrors in the house with black fabric

There were Mourning Etiquette during the Victorian era and they were:

• Cover the mirrors in the house with black fabric
• Wrapping the door handles with black crepe tied with a white ribbon to let people know they shouldn't ring the bell because it could jar the nerves of the mourners
• Friends and family might stay with the bereaved overnight and surround the bed
• It was suggested that calls of condolences be made ten days following the death or when the person felt well enough to show up for church services
• People in deep mourning did not attend any social events for up to a year

History of white wedding dress

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The royal wedding in 1840

Royal brides didn't usually wear white but instead they chose to wear ' heavy brocaded gowns embroidered with white and silver thread,' or red colour as it was popular in Western Europe. The white wedding dress is first became popular during the Victorian era when Queen Victoria got married with Prince Albert, she wore a white lace wedding dress at her wedding in 1840 and after the photograph of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert's wedding portrait published, many brides follows and opted to wear white on their wedding day as well. Etiquette books began to turn the white gown into a tradition and it became a symbol of 'a connotation of innocence and sexual purity'.

Existing portrayals of Miss Havisham character in 'Great Expectations'

Film and Drama
1946


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Martita Hunt as Miss Havisham
The messy hair at the top shows the 'madness' of Miss Havisham's character and I like this 1946 version as it is in black and white film which creates a more mystery effects.

2012

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Helena Bonham Carter as Miss Havisham
This version is similar to the 1946 as the use of big messy hair, bridal veils attached on the head. The brown eye shadow helps to darken the hollows on the eyes which gives a more tired and ageing effects to the character.

1999

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Charlotte Rampling as Miss Havisham
This version of Miss Havisham is a bit different to other versions as Miss Havisham has brown hair and she look quite young in this version. Tight curls was used on each side of the head  and a crown was decorated on the head.

2011

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Gillian Anderson as Miss Havisham
The pale complexion, dry split lips were used on the makeup look. I think the way the makeup artist uses brown colour eye shadow is for darken the hollows on the eyes to give a tired, aging effects. Middle parting was used, loose curls on the side and the hair was a little bit messy to show the 'madness' of Miss Havisham's character.
 
Theatre
2005

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Sian Philips as Miss Havisham
Middle parting, loose curls and on the top of the hair is messy which presents the 'madness' of Miss Havisham. The use of dark colour eye shadow gives gothic features to the character and the wrinkles on her face shows an old interpretations of Miss Havisham. Pale complexion is also seen in here.

2013

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Paula Wilcox as Miss Havisham
I think the makeup that Paula Wilcox was wearing is like a more modern interpretation of  Miss Havisham as the use of dark colour lips, strong eye shadow, pale complexion and I think it emphasizes the gothic feathers of the character and also shows the lifestyles of Miss Havisham ( how she lived without sunlight, didn't eat much, maybe also about the hygiene and skin problems of her as well). The strong contouring helps to show the way she described by Pip as a 'skeleton'. Center parting and arranged with loose ringlets were used.

What is High Definition Broadcasting and how does it affect make up and hair artists?



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High definition (HD) broadcasting began in 2006 in United Kingdom and it displays high definition displays and quality. Early High Definition Television broadcasting used analog technology, but nowadays it uses video compression and transmitted digitally. It affects make up and hair artists a lot because the quality on the TV are more high standard than before and the audience can see the details of people on the TV more clearly. For example when the camera zooms in, you can see the close up of the makeup and hair styling of the person on TV. It is very important that for makeup artist to understand how lighting works and how it affects the makeup look on TV or film as it might be different to what you see in person. There are makeup tools and products from nowadays which helps makeup artist or hair stylist working in HD broadcasting such as on below:

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An airbrush for makeup artist would help to create a more even base and is good for working in HD. The airbrush helps to create a more longer lasting finish and it is more easy and quick to apply.

Film 'Great Expectations' 2012 Review

Film 'Great Expectations' 2012 by Mike Newell trailer

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Film: Great Expectations
Directed by: Mike Newell
Produced by: David Faigenblum
Elizabeth Karlsen
Emanuel Michael
Stephen Woolley
Releases date: 30th November 2012
Country: United Kingdom

I have read the book 'Great Expectations' by Charles Dickens before I watched this film and I found it even more interesting as I watched how the actors in the film portrayed the characters in the book. In 'Great Expectations', you can see the class division during Victorian era. I like the style of the character Miss Havisham in this film because of how the big volume hair shows the craziness and also I like how there is a jewels on her head to show wealth. Helena Bonham Carter as Miss Havisham in this film is similar to what I imagined of the character when I was reading the book. 

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I particularly like the costume and the styling of Holliday Grainger as Estella and she is my favourite character among the characters in the film. Her styles give me inspirations for my project and it surprises me when every time she appears in the scene with different costumes and styles. I also like how she has got different hairstyles and the hairstyle that she wore during the last scene is my favourite because I like how there are red ribbons attached to the side of the hair showing a feminine and romantic look. Ribbons were commonly used on hats, hairstyles and costumes during the Victorian era. In the film, Estella always wear the colour purple and blue and they are the popular colours at that period of time.

This version of 'Great Expectations' is my favourite and I think the characters have performed successfully throughout the film. I especially like the setting in Miss Havisham's house and also how the scenes are well thought out.

Miss Havisham's character in 'Great Expectations'

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Miss Havisham

The book 'Great Expectations' by Charles Dickens was set in the nineteenth century England. In the book, Miss Havisham's character is described as a pity and mad woman. She also described by Dickens as a person who looks like 'the witch of the place'. She is around mid fifties and is a rich, callous lady. She lives in a big house call Satis House and it is a covert, mysterious place. Miss Havisham is also described living in a dark environment  and the way she lived away from the sunlight for a long time aged her. Pip describes her as the strangest lady he ever seen before and she looks like a waxwork and a skeleton with dark moving eyes.

On below is the description from Pip when the first time he met her:
'It was not in the first few moments that I saw all these things, though I saw more of them in the first moments than might be supposed. But I saw that everything within my view which ought to be white, had been white long ago, and had lost its lustre and was faded and yellow. I saw that the bride within the bridal dress had withered like the dress, and like the flowers, and had no brightness left but the brightness of her sunken eyes. I saw that the dress had been put upon the rounded figure of a young woman, and that the figure upon which it now hung loose had shrunk to skin and bone. Once, I had been taken to see some ghastly waxwork at the Fair, representing I know not what impossible personage lying in state. Once, I had been taken to one of our old marsh churches to see a skeleton in the ashes of a rich dress that had been dug out of a vault under the church pavement. Now, waxwork and skeleton seemed to have dark eyes that moved and looked at me. I should have cried out, if I could.'

Pip's further description in the book about Miss Havisham:
'She was dressed in rich materials,—satins, and lace, and silks,—all of white. Her shoes were white. And she had a long white veil dependent from her hair, and she had bridal flowers in her hair, but her hair was white. Some bright jewels sparkled on her neck and on her hands, and some other jewels lay sparkling on the table. Dresses, less splendid than the dress she wore, and half-packed trunks, were scattered about. She had not quite finished dressing, for she had but one shoe on,—the other was on the table near her hand,—her veil was but half arranged, her watch and chain were not put on, and some lace for her bosom lay with those trinkets, and with her handkerchief, and gloves, and some flowers, and a Prayer-Book all confusedly heaped about the looking-glass.'


In the story, Miss Havisham invited the protagonist Pip to her house and play, but her main purpose is to let him fall in love with her adopted daughter Estella. Estella was raised to hate men and break their hearts as Miss Havisham wants to take revenge on men. Miss Havisham is wearing a bridesmaid dress because long time ago, her partner didn't turn up on their wedding day, leaving her alone with the guests while feeling ashamed and after that, she still wearing her wedding dress everyday and that is the reason why she hated men and wants to take revenge on men. Also another reason is that she found out what her partner wanted was just her money. She was around twenty-five years old when she was jilted and it was around 1780s at that time. I think Dickens is clever as he wrote in the book where Miss Havisham just wearing one shoe and it symbolizes that her partner will never turn up. I feel sympathy for Miss Havisham's character, but on the other hand I also don't agree with her selfishness which cause people heart broken and the fact she uses Estella to take revenge. The fire scene at miss Havisham's Satis house symbolize a Christian image of cleansing and punishment.

Book reference:
Charles Dickens (2002), Great Expectations, published by Penguin Classics; Revised edition.

Victorian era - Hair and Headdress

Hair
Early Victorian era (1837-1860)


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Portrait of Queen Victoria by Franz Xaver Winteralter
c. 1842
Oil on canvas

The portrait of Queen Victoria from above is an example of smooth middle parting at the top and plaits on the side of the head forming long loops and extended to the back of the hair.

 
 A home, I have created an early Victorian hairstyle based on the portrait of Queen Victorian on above. A sleek, clear middle parting is being seen on the top and plaits on the side extend to the back. A bun was created at the back. Because my practice head's hair is not long enough, so I can't wrapped the plaits around the bun and also as you can see on the photo, the bun is tiny at the back.
 

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Portrait of Mrs. Walters by George Frederic Watts (British, 1817-1904),
1840s
Oil on canvas


The portrait of Mrs Walters is an example of flat and sleek middle parting at the top and spiral curls on the side of the head. 
 
Victorian women never cut their hair so they all had very long hair, but the only exception was that if she had got serious illness. During early Victorian era, center parting, tight curls were popular. The colour of the hair should suitable to their skin tones. Only black hair dye was available at that time and the reason Victorian ladies dyed their hair was because they wanted to cover up the grey hair; The hairstyle that they wore was: the top part of the hair was flat and smooth while one or more tight spiral curls or ringlets set closely to each side of the face. Sometimes, they did plaits rather than curls on the sides and the plaits created long loops, extended to the back of the hair and the top part of the ears were seen. Curls were also seen in men's hairstyles as well! Because Victorian ladies or women got very long hair, they usually tied up their hair into a bun shape or chignon at the back and it was sometimes tied up high but usually lower. Girls who were not engaged yet would wear their hair down and no hat and it symbolised eligibility of themselves. Pastes and lotions were used in Victorian era and they contained dangerous chemicals such as lead that could damage the hair or skin. As Victorian women care about their hair a lot, they put oil on their hair and used a long sausage curls to smooth the hair down. They used styling oils, creams or waxes to help their hair hold in place. Victorian women didn't washed their hair everyday because it was inconvenient as they have very long hair. 

During 1848, Britain imported 8766 pounds of hair from France and so you can see Victorian cares about their hairstyles a lot and aiming for having beautiful hair. As Victorian thought long hair was envied and attractive, they wore extensions and hair pieces. The supplying of artificial hair had become a major industry around 1859 and there was an article in the Irish Quarterly Review written that ' In no country in the world is more attention paid to the hair than in Great Britain'.

In 1859, there was an English book, entitled 'The Habits of Good Society', declared that 'a lady's hair should, in ordinary life, be dressed twice a day, even if she does not vary the mode. To keep it cool and glossy, it requires being completely taken down in the middle of the day, or in the evening, according to the dinner- hours. The taste in the dressing it in the morning should be simple, without pins, bows, or any foreign auxiliary to the best ornament of nature. I do not mean to deprecate the use of pads, as they are called, or supports used under the hair at this time, because they supersede the necessity of frizzing, which is always a process most injurious to the hair; but I own I object much to the ends of black lace, bows of ribbon &c., used by may young women in their morning coiffure: of course, for those past girlhood, and not old enough to wear caps, the case is different.'

Mid to Late Victorian era (1860-1890)

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Godey's Lady Book, July 1860.

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Late Victorian Hairstyles



As you can see the two photos from above, on the first photo, the side curls were more loosed than early Victorian times and later on, on the second photo, in the 1870's, the side curls were disappeared and also same with the middle parting. The curls started to move upwards and the curls were moved to the back of the hair. Some of the loose curls were leaved down as well and the hair also become more fluffy. At the back of the hair were usually placed in a chignon,curls and braid and sometimes, there were small curls around the forehead. Crimping became popular in the early 1870's and during 1872, the French hairdresser, Marcel Grateau had introduced the Marcel wave and it is a heated iron which creates curls.

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There are ingredients that helped Victorian to wash and care the hair such as on below:

• Soap and water
• “If you want to have a good head of hair, never apply to cosmetics; use nothing else to clean it but strong, cold black tea. Rub it into the roots every evening before going to bed, with a little sponge, and every morning do the same. I generally use it, and recommend it to all ladies desirous of having a full head of hair” – pg. 261, Godey’s Lady’s Book (September 1867).
• “To cleanse long hair – beat up the yelk of an egg with a pint of soft water. Apply it warm, and afterwards wash it out with warm water” – pg.458, Godey’s Lady’s Book (printed 1869).
• “The yolk of an egg beaten up in warm water is an excellent application to the scalp” – pg. 317, Decorum (1879).
• "Vinegar and water form a good wash for the roots of the hair” – pg. 316, Decorum (published 1879).
• “Any preparation of rosemary forms an agreeable and highly cleansing wash” – pg. 317, Decorum (1879).
• Brushing

There are comments from the Victorians about recipes for hair treatments such as on below:

A recipe for Hair loss or thinning hair

answer to a reader in The Young Ladies' Journal, 1873

Judy: Try rum and castor oil mixed in equal parts, shaken together, and rubbed into the roots of the hair at night. It is stimulating and nourishing.

 

Lightening hair and hair washes

to another reader in The Young Ladies' Journal, 1873

Pollie's Own: Washing you hair with soda will make it ligter; but it is injurious to the skin of the head and causes the hair to break. Roesmary is very beneficial and is used as a wash.


The book, "The arts of beauty; or secrets of a lady's toilet, with hints to gentlemen, on the art of fascinating" by Lola Montez, Harvard College Library,1891 had recipes to color the gray hair: "10 grams of gallic acid, 1 ounce of acetic acid y 1 ounce of tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron. Dissolve the gallic acid in the tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron, and then add the acetic acid. Before using this preparation, the hair should be thoroughly washed with soap and water. A great and desirable peculiarity of this dye is that it can be so applied as to color the hair either black or the lighter shade of brown. If black is the color desired, the preparation must be applied when the hair is moist, and for brown it shall not be used until the hair is perfectly dry. The way to apply the compound is to dip the points of a fine tooth comb into it until the interstices are fill with the fluid, then gently draw the comb through the hair, commencing at the roots, till the dye has perceptibly taken effect. When the hair is entirely dry, oil and brushes it as usual ".

Headdress

The more elaborately decorated headdress that a person wore, the more wealthy the person was. The headdress was also a symbol of status in society and wealth during the Victorian times.

Bonnets

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Godey's Lady's Book, 1864

The advantage of wearing the bonnets is that it helps the bun at the back of the hair keep in shape.

Dress cap

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Godey's Lady's Book 1854

Coiffure

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Bandeaux and pearl comb

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Godey's Lady's Book, February 1856

A Bandeaux was one of the popular Victorian headdress and was made of headbands.

Wide ribbons and golden leaves
The ribbons were made up into bows and the end part falling almost to the shoulders. Golden leaves were also used for headdress as well.

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Victorian liked to decorate their hair especially during evening time. Hair accessories such as feathers, flowers, artificial grapes, etc were worn. During later Victorian times, ornamental pins were worn in the plaits and the pins have filigreed gold and silver heads. There were also different ornaments on the pins such as butterflies.

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Book references:

• Richard Corson (2005). Fashion In Hair- The First Five Thousand Years. Peter Owen Publishers.
• Richard Corson (2010). Fashion In Makeup - From Ancient To Modern Times. Revised Edition, third edition, Peter Owen Publishers.

Creating cuts, scratches, bruises and perfect black eye

When creating cuts, scratches, bruises and black eye, there are a few points that you need to consider:

• How was it done?
• If black eye, what was the person got hit or punch?
• What size and shape is it?
• How old is it ?

Equipments:

• Supra color palette
• Eye shadow palette
• Spatula
• Palette knife
• Cine-Wax
• Non-flexible collodion
• Liquid latex
• Tuplast
• Transparent blood
• Pro shield barrier foam
• A pin
• Baby buds
• Orange stipple sponge
• Black stipple sponge
• Wound filler

Creating cuts:
1. First, use a spatula to get some cine-wax and roll the wax into the shape you want with your hand. Then, put the wax on the place where you want the cut to be and use a spatula to blend the edges of the wax. You can use a little bit of cleanser to make the wax go over easier.
2. After that, use a palette knife and create a cut in the middle. You can use a pin to lift some area of the wax a bit to create a more realistic cut. Then use a baby bud and apply the liquid latex over the wax. Use a hairdryer to dry the latex (remember cool temperature).
3. Use an orange stipple sponge and stipple some dark red colour onto the cut area. Remember not to create hard edges! Stipple some foundation onto the cut to make the wax matches your skin colour.
4. You can use the colour for example, red, yellow, green, blue, etc and apply it to the wax with a baby bud.
5. Put the wound filler into the cut and then apply the transparent blood onto the cut. You can use a black stipple sponge and some blood to create scratches effects on the knuckles and around the cut. After that, you can build up more colours to make the cut look more realistic.



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Synthetic Pus Effect can make the cut look more realistic.

Remember 'The newer the wound, the brighter the colour of the blood'.

When the skin get swollen, it will turn a bit shiny and you can use Vaseline to create the shiny effects.

Model: Mireia Lopez

Scars:
Old scars
1. You can use tuplast to create old scars. Use a hairdryer with cool temperature to dry the tuplast. After that, you can use a pin to create a bit roughness to the scars. Then, you can put colour over the top.

1. Apply the pro shield barrier foam on the area you want to create the scar and this helps to protect your skin before applying the collodion. Non-flexible collodion can creates split lips, old scars and cuts.
2. Then apply the collodion to the skin and use a spatula to create the shape of the scar. Remember to gather the skin together when you use the hairdryer to dry the collodion. You can continue to build up more layers after.

Model: Mireia Lopez

Black eye:
1. You can use the colour purple, black, dark red and the mixture of green and yellow to create the bruise effects.

Thoughts about the lesson:

In order to improve next time, for the cut makeup, I can blend the cine wax on the skin a bit more, so the edges look more smooth and the cut will look more realistic.

Victorian era - Beauty Ideals, Makeup and Skincare

Beauty Ideals and Makeup
The beauty ideals in Victorian period were women had dark hair arranged in ringlets, oval to round shape face, arched eyebrows, pale complexion and a little bit of rouge on the cheeks. Being docile and natural at that time was the beauty ideality. According to Dr Cazenave, ' the eyebrows, to be handsome, should be well- furnished with hair, moderately thick, curved, and form a line in the shape of an arch. The head should have more hair than the tail and the numerous short hairs should lie in and out. The two eyebrows should never meet, and though one often sees them perfectly united, it is at the present day looed upon as a deformity'.
Black hair colour will make the body and the face look slimmer and also make the skin whiter. Pale complexion was a sign of gentility and nobility as upper class people didn't needed to work outside and under the sun. By the late 1800s, Victorian liked to paint fine blue lines on their skin to make them looks like veins and also make the skin look more delicate and translucent. Some women will use facial powder to tone down the shine on their face or hide the freckles or redness on their face. They used pale tones lipstick and might apply a clear pomade (like beeswax) to give shine to the lips and eye shadow in vibrant colours and heavy makeup was mostly worn by theatre people and prostitutes. During Victorian era, people pay a lot of attention on health and hygiene. There were many women's magazines warned and status against the toxic qualities of lead-based industrial cosmetics. Religious labelling cosmetics as 'the tools of the devil' during Victorian era.


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Skin Care
For caring the eyebrows, Dr. Cazenave says, requires only a soft toothbrush dipped in water with a little cologne.

He suggests two recipes which helps to darken the eyebrows:
To render them black

• Gall nuts - 1 ounce
• Oil - 3 ounces
• Mix with Ammoniac Salt - 1 drachm
• Add a little vinegar

This was to be applied before going to bed and allowed to remain on all night. In the morning the brows were to be washed with tepid water.

To render them brown

• Lead Filings - 1 ounce
• Iron Dust - 1 ounce
• Vinegar - 1 pint

Boil all together to reduce to half the original quantity. Shake it well when cool, and wash the brows.

Sarah Josepha Hale, editor of Godey's Lady's Book, shared with her readers one of her own beauty secrets - ' the nightly application to her temples of brown paper soaked in cider vinegar.
This was worn all night in order to keep the skin around the eyes smooth and free from wrinkles.'

In order to achieve the pale complexion, people drink vinegar. Elder-flower and rose water were popular at that time, but they were not very effective for whitening the skin. Cold creams were used to keep the skin hydrated and smooth and they were usually made of herbs, flowers, etc.

Book references:

• Richard Corson (2010). Fashion In Makeup - From Ancient To Modern Times, Revised Edition, third edition, Peter Owen Publishers.

Historical Victorian hair

During the start of the Victorian era, tight curls and center parting were popular. The curls were placed on the sides of the face. But later on, you can see the curls were more loosed and relaxed and also the center parting started to disappear. The curls on the side started to move towards the back of the hair and off the face as time passed.

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Portrait of Queen Victoria in her coronation robes and wearing the State Diadem

 Painting by Franz Xaver Winterhalter 1845

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Portrait of Queen Victoria
Coronation portrait by George Hayter
c. 1860

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1860

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1870

 Equipments:

• A tail comb
• A hair comb
• Sectioning clips
• Hair tongs
• A hair bobble
• Hair pins

To create Victorian  loose curls:

1)  Separate the hair into middle parting. Then, divide the hair into two parts (the front part will be up till the ears). After that, separate the front part of the hair into three parts.

2)  Use the hair tongs and roll the hair inside and towards the head to create curls. Use a tail comb to make the ends of the hair roll into the tong as well. Remember to hold the tong straight when curling the hair.

3)  Finally, release the tong from the hair carefully.

 

 

Victorian bun:

1)  First method: Tight up the back of the hair with a hair bobble. Remember to tight it not too low. Then create twist and roll the twist into a bun shape. After that, attach with hair pins.

2)  Second method: Instead of doing twist, you can create normal plait and then roll the plait into a bun shape and then attach it with hair pins.

 
Victorian plaits:

1) Create a normal plait on the side of the head, but remember don’t start the plait too high as you want to leave a smooth finish for the fringe (the middle parting). After finished the low plait, move the direction of the plait towards the bun and if the model got long hair, you can roll the plaits around the bun and secure it with hair pins.

I have created an early Victorian hairstyle on my practice head at home. As you can see the photos below, the doll hasn't got very long hair, so the bun at the back is tiny and also the plaits on the side is not long enough to roll around the bun at the back. A clear center parting is being seen at the front.